Mixing Henna (Quick/Heat Method)

I started using henna and indigo about 3 months ago. I have done 3 full head applications. It should have only been 2 but I screwed one up and had to redo it. I have white, dye resistant hair but with a few additions to the henna (and indigo separately) mix the color has covered well.

Here is what you will need to prepare your henna for application using the quick method. Note the quantities are per 100 grams of henna powder which is the amount needed for color touch up application.

Ingredients & Tools:

100 g pure henna powder (I use Hannah Natural)

Large glass jar or plastic cup of filtered water

Juice from 1/2 lemon, pulp filtered out

1/2 tsp table salt, NOT sea or Himalayan

Wooden spoon

Ceramic or glass heat proof container, bowl or pot (non-metal)

Large pot

1. Empty henna powder in to ceramic bowl. The powder should be light in weight and green in color.

Pure henna powder.

2. Slowly add water while stirring. Add the water little by little until you have the consistency of thin mud to catsup. Try to get the chunks out by pressing the mix against the side of the container with the spoon.

Consistency is key.

3. Add lemon juice and salt. Mix well.

4. Fill large pot with about 3″ of water and place on stove.

5. Put henna mix container in pot of water. Make sure the water rises enough to heat the henna mix but not enough that you will risk the water splashing in to the mix.

Double boiler setup.

6. Heat on medium, stirring occasionally. The amount of time it takes to heat the henna through depends on the type of container you use. I used a thick ceramic pot from a small crock pot so it took about 30 minutes for my henna to heat through.

7. Do a finger test once the henna is consistently warm all the way through. Dip your finger tip in the henna. Let set for about a minute or less. Rinse with water. If you get an orange-colored stain the dye has been released from the henna powder.

Henna dye release.

8. Remove henna from heat. Stir again. Let sit uncovered until it is cool enough for application.

Slow Method: There is an overnight method out there that I haven’t used but have read about. Some people do the steps above, with their own tweaks of ingredients, and let the mix set overnight. Without heat the dye release takes about 24 hours. Some people claim the hair color lasts longer and is more vibrant.

Variations of This Recipe: There are many variations of henna recipes. I have read mixed reviews about many of them which is why I stick to basics. Some people add various oils such as coconut or olive oil to add to the conditioning benefits of using henna. I imagine oils would make application easier but have also read that it can have a positive or negative effect on color.

Henna, Henna/Indigo Blend and Straight Indigo: This recipe can be used for blends or pure indigo powder as well – but without the heat.

Tips & reminders for mixing henna:

Do not use metal utensils or containers for mixing henna. Wood, plastic or ceramic only. I don’t have first hand experience but have heard that the metal can interact with the dye in the henna causing unfavorable results.

Do not forget the salt and lemon juice! This is the most important step! I forgot both on my second application of indigo (that I use after applying henna). The color washed out quickly and I had to re-do the entire indigo application. What a pain!

The consistency is very important. You want it to be thick enough to stay on your head but not so thick it hardens like dried mud right after application. You don’t want it too thin because then it will continuously drip off your head during processing. (I made both mistakes)

Use a reputable brand. I found a good brand and intend to stick with it.

Mix enough henna. For a touch-up you need 100 grams for average thickness hair. If you have very thick hair you will need more. To give you an idea of how much you need: for full length application on medium length, average thickness hair you will need 300 grams (3 boxes if you use Hannah Naturals).

Buy double the amount you think you need. You don’t want to be in a situation (like I was…) where you screw it up, need to redo it but don’t have any on hand and have to wait a week for your online order. That sucked.

Other ideas I’d like to experiment with:

Adding essential oils to the henna mix. I have read that some help condition the hair (even more than with just henna if you can believe that) or increase color binding.

Using left over henna to do a tatoo. I tried this on my first henna application. I put the left over henna in a plastic baggie and cut the corner to create an icing bag type deal. It’s really hard to do your own foot with a baggie of henna. Enough said! I need to get a proper applicator.